1. Leaf cuttings: The entire leaf, including the basal portion, is removed. Older, more mature leaves produce the best results. (Photo 2-4) The leaf cuttings are placed on damp medium such as sphagnum peat moss or preferably sphagnum moss (living or dead) and kept in bright light with a photoperiod of about 14 hours and at a temperature of about 80°F (26.7°C). An alternative method is to insert the cuttings into medium for about V2 their length.
A convenient method of providing an ideal environment is to place the soil and cuttings in a plastic bag in which a stake or piece of glass tubing has been placed in the medium to prevent the collapse of the bag. The bag is twisted shut and secured to the top of the stake or glass rod. (Fig. 9-1)
Buds that look like little bumps appear within two months and plants will develop from the buds. The number of plants produced from each leaf varies from one to as many as 30. When plantlets have developed substantial root systems they can be transplanted and kept under regular growing conditions.
2. 'Bulb' scales: Carefully peel off the Tmlb' scales which are in reality the basal portions of the leaf petioles. The structures that are sold as bulbs are not true botanical bulbs, but rather Dionaea plants with the tops of their leaves removed. A few of the scales can be removed from a 'bulb' and then the rest of the 1bulb' can be planted, or all the scales can be removed and utilized for asexual reproduction. Follow the same procedure as detailed for leaf cuttings.
3. Vegetative apomixis: Small plants may develop on the flower stalk and/or in the infloresence. Why this occurs is not known and it is also not known how to induce this reproductive activity. When the plantlets have developed roots they can be removed and planted.
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